The first week

What I look like trying to speak Amharic at times....

 

Hotel employee: Sälam

Me: Sälam

Hotel employee: dähna näs?

Me: *silence and a smile*

Hotel employee: ïndämïn näš?

Me: *eyes look from left to right as I try to find an escape* and finally I say “Lo siento. No sé lo que está diciendo.”

This was how my first week went in Ethiopia. A few people would approach me or greet me in the language (called Amharic), and I’d stand there confused because I don't know a word of it,  AND for some strange reason I end up speaking spanish!



 Its very odd, but I'm not the only American here who finds themselves using or fighting the urge to use spanish. Its quite hilarious actually.

I’ve been in this predicament before where Im living in a world that isn't predominately english. But my experience in Argentina wasn't that bad because Spanish is so similar to English, and I've been studying it since high school… so at least with that language i had the basic greetings down. But Amharic, is an entirely new ball game.

It is very intimidating and its written alphabet doesn't help soothe my spirits.

I mean look at that nonsense.
I have a lot of work cut out for me in these next 2 years.

I guess this is why Pre Service Training (PST) is so intense. Since my arrival Peace Corps has all 70 of us Education volunteers in training sessions from 8am - 530pm. Its very exhausting and although Im completely over it, I know it is very necessary too.

So to answer all the questions I have been getting from friends.

No, i have not had sufficient time to roam the city.

No, I have not made a ton of Peace Corps friends because we are practically in “school” all day and a lot of us knock out after.

and No, i have not met an African prince to whisk me off into the sunset while riding on a lions back.

My time so far consist of going to training sessions on a variety of topics that go exactly like this:

“The Crime rate in Ethiopia is pretty high, 1 out of every 5 volunteers usually becomes a victim of some type of theft,” said the Security trainer assigned to inform us PCV’s of what we were getting into. “You all need to take precautions and think of ways to mitigate theft from happening to you. For instance, never leave your purse or bag unattended, keep you zippers zipped and put locks on them if possible. When you are in a crowded area, hold your items close to your body and stay alert.”

I leave most trainings feeling informed, prepared and honestly a little bored. I mean this isn't my first time traveling in a 3rd world country and I'm naturally a very cautious person. But I will admit that Ive never worried so much about theft in all my travels as I have now in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. There have already been a few occasions where there was sketchy behavior from a group of boys who were walking way too close to one of my friends as she crossed the street. I noticed 5 min later that one of the pockets in the backpack she was wearing was open and unzipped. Nothing was missing but she swears that pocket was zipped before.

“If someone approaches you and attempts robbery, give them whatever they ask for.” The security officer continues. “ Items are replaceable, that laptop, your cell phone and wallet are all replaceable, but you are not. Be smart and you should all be fine.”

And this is how most of our trainings have gone during the first few days…until today when things finally got a little interesting.

Lately during trainings we have been learning more about our home stay situations and Ethiopian culture. A group of PCV’s (Peace Corps Volunteers) from previous years popped by to help us newbies out, and let us know what living and working in Ethiopia is really like. These discussions have been the most entertaining by far.

“Be prepared to be called ‘ferenji’, which means foreigner, or ‘China’, Said one female volunteer. “ You may not even look Chinese but many of the Ethiopians in Addis equate foreigners to being Chinese, because many Chinese have come here to build roads and work in construction. And some use the word interchangeably with foreigner.” Another volunteer spoke up “Im African American and Ive been living in Ethiopia for a full year now, and its happened to me too.You would think I blend in, and sometimes I do, but other times, even when Im walking alone I can tell that there are people looking at me, watching me as if unsure if I'm one of them or not. I don't know what it is they see in me, maybe its just my demeanor and the sway in my step but sooner or later they realize I'm a foreigner too and Ive been called ferenji, and even worse Ive been called “Nigger”. She pauses

“That one hurt a lot, because here I am, in the motherland, in a country full of beautiful black people and yet Im hearing this derogatory term. I don't even know if the person who said it knows the full history behind it, but they knew it was wrong.”

Ethiopia is the only African country that was not colonized and enslaved and the people here are proud of that. Ive heard other African American PCV’s tell me that they were called the N-word too and it makes me wonder what this country stance is on that word. What they think of the history behind it, a history they were not really apart of…

Someone raises their hand. “What do Ethiopians think about Americans?”

“Well, they think you are rich,” Said a male volunteer, “Thats why you must be cautions and careful regarding theft and not staying out late or going to certain areas. When you move in with your Host Families you all must be home before 730pm when it gets dark. No exceptions. Also American women are viewed as very loose and with low morals in this country. You have to remember that many countries only get perceptions of Americans and other cultures from what they see on TV, so you can thank Jersey Shore, Real World and Housewives of wherever for the perception this country has of you. But this is also why you must follow the cultural norms here and of wherever town you are placed in later. You might be the only American some of your neighbors might meet  in their lifetime and you want to make a good impression and be respectable in their eyes. That typically means wearing clothing that is at knee length or longer, not showing your shoulders, not hanging out with males one on one or inviting them into your house alone. If you want to have a friend over that is of the opposite sex, at the very least leave your front door open so people can see inside.  But expect people to talk, news spreads very fast here, especially news about the only American in town who seems to be running a brothel out of her home.

Another raised hand. “What about us men? Do we have any of the same restrictions the women have?
“Yes, but its not as damaging. You shouldn't be inviting women to sleep over also, it just looks bad for Peace Corps. But unlike the women, men can smoke cigarettes and be seen drinking in public. One thing you need to be careful of is mentioning anything that has to do with homosexuality. Being homosexual is illegal here, you can go to jail for up to 15 years and now they are trying to make it punishable by death. So do not even talk about the subject, it makes many Ethiopians uncomfortable and if anyone begins suspecting you, or even suspecting you support it, there will be problems.

An older gentleman clears his throat. “As peace Corps volunteers you are also not allowed to talk about Politics. Avoid this subject at all costs, we are not here to take a stand, or politically sway the members of our community. Peace Corps volunteers must remain neutral on all hot button issues. This includes human rights issues like female circumcision or genital mutilation, I know many of you may feel strongly about such topics, but it is not your place to be fighting on the front lines and combating these issues. You may generally talk about them if you wish, but do not have an opinion, if asked what you think, just say “ Peace Corps doesn't allow me to talk about that.”

“What about topics regarding Religion?”

“Well religion is a subject thats commonly talked about in Ethiopia. Its not rude to discuss that here, and if you are comfortable with it, then by all means share what you believe in or don’t believe in. But just know that if you are Atheist, many people here will have a hard time understanding that concept and will think of you as strange. Ethiopians are pretty diverse religiously, they wont care that you are Christian, Muslim or Catholic, but not believing in a God at all would be very strange to them. The culture and religion here overlap tremendously, so please know that religion will be brought up, just make sure you know what you will say and how  you will deal with your host family inviting you to church or other religious ceremonies.

SO much information and so little time before I go to my host family in the town of Butajira (BOO-TAH-JIR -RA). June 12th is the day we move in with these “new families”, and step away from this westernized Addis Ababa, with its western flush toilets, showers & 24/7 electricity. Butajira will be a step closer to what I am expecting my peace corps service to look like and Im just hoping that my host family is full of cute kids, and at least one friendly-rabies-free-pet.

Proof that I might be losing it, but I'll make it in the end!