Saturday, July 26, 2014

Several blog post in one

School started on Monday, July 14th and I was more excited than I thought I’d be to talk to my fellow American volunteers about their Home stay situations.


When I wake up, I get out of bed, grab my toiletry items and go outside to get to the shower, sink and toilet. Although our shower only spouts cold water, I am lucky because my family actually has a shower head, most other PCV’s (Peace Corps Volunteers) bathe in and with buckets. Taking a cold shower at 6am is no joke…I find myself mentally arguing with myself, and questioning the importance of being clean as goosebumps appear all over my arms, and legs and I shiver uncontrollably. I can go 2 years without a shower right? It cant be THAT critical to my health…



After enduring the pain that is bathing, I finish up with my morning routine and am ready for training class.

I leave our cozy compound, my host dad walks me to school where I  meet up with a few of my PCV friends.


“OMG, how is your family?”
“Did you hear the hyenas last night?”
“Im going to kill the rooster in my compound”
“Did Peace Corps tell our families that Americans love PB&J or something?!”
“Can we get trainings on how to use a shint bet? I was doing a #2 and I kinda missed the hole”

It is comforting and very amusing to swap stories, ask questions and just knowing that there are other people like myself going through the same things here in Ethiopia. By the way, a shint bet is the name for the bathroom here. In my house we have a western toilet, and we also have a shint bet, which is basically an outhouse. An outdoor room, with a cement floor and a hole that you squat over to … do your business.

Our first session entitled “ Homestay Debrief”, was very comical as all 70 of us volunteers openly asked questions to the Experienced Peace Corps staff and the Ethiopian staff members.

“ Alan walked me home last night, and now my family thinks he's my husband… is it culturally inappropriate to hang out with a man or something, unless we are married?”

“I have not used the bathroom since I arrived in Ethiopia 2 weeks ago… Im worried.”

“I have a lot freckles, clearly as you and see, but I don't think my family understands what a freckle is…I think Im the first white person they have seen with freckles. They keep asking me if im in pain… they think im sick or have a disease or something, how do I explain it to them?”



“My host dad told me that he wants me to go to church with him, but I hear its 3 hours long! Do I have to go?”


And the Q&A session continued. I definitely had a few questions, its hard living in a culture that you really know nothing about. Especially when you are staying with a family and knowing that you will end up saying or doing something that they might see as rude or ungrateful.

For example

It seems that there can be a huge culture clash with the dating scene in Ethiopia and social interactions.

*Not that I have been dating, but PC staff tries to give us a very well rounded education on all things culture related, and I found this exercise very interesting. PC grouped off the male PCVs, female PCVs, Male Ethiopian staff, and female Ethiopian staff and had all 4 groups write out signs they look for in the opposite sex that say they want to have sex, and signs they give to the opposite sex, and this is what happened…



The American males & females also made a list, but because most of you reading this are american, im sure you can think of them yourself. What stood out to me right away when I read this list, was that wearing perfume in Ethiopia, might be interpreted by men that I was interested
in sex… my jaw dropped when I read that, but then I smiled, because I realized that now I have even more of a reason not to shower for the next 2 years ;)

Another volunteer was very upset that simply existing and sitting alone at night or in a bar, would give men preconceived notions about her. Being in a bar, showing “too much” skin, playing with your hair and “swinging hips” i.e.: walking lol all = interested female in these guys’ eyes.

Now I know that a select few cannot represent an entire race, but this was done to provide general information and what the majority, especially in traditional, more rural areas might think.


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That sweet release

The chamber pot (orange plastic bucket) next to my bed is ruining me. At first, I ignored it, I decided that I could just hold any bodily fluids that wanted to escape and wait until morning, but eventually it happened. Honestly, it was inevitable, I always have to go at night and i don't know why I thought that would change here in Africa.

Because of my night time ritual of using this chamber pot, my body has 100% fully adapted and  is completely comfortable with peeing in this pot in my bedroom. In fact, synapses fire off in my brain every time I step into my room and I get the urge to pee, it doesn't even have to be nighttime anymore! Now I find myself, in the middle of the day, trying to race out of my bedroom and into the bathroom (which is outside of the house) squiggling, squealing and rubbing my knees together, doing the full pee-pee dance because I just cant hold my bladder anymore.

I can complain about this pot ruining me, or I can be honest and say that its totally liberating. There is nothing quite like squatting over a plastic orange bucket and feeling that sweet release. lol


1 - Africa
0 - America
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Differences

After class today, I headed straight home and found Fantaye (Fan - tie - A) sitting in the living room making bunna (coffee) with 2 other women I did not recognize. Greeting were made, hugs and kisses exchanged and shortly after drinking a few cups of bunna, the unknown women (who turned out to be cousins of my host mom) left.

Fantaye and I, were left in the living room, just sitting and chatting. Fantaye is a 34 year old, friend of my host moms, who is renting out a room here on our compound. She speaks great english, and that reason alone is enough to make me love her.

“Wow I never knew Emebet (my inate/mom) had such a big family”

“Yeah, they are her cousins, they live out in the country and in more rural areas”

“oh ok… and they came all the way here to visit”

“Yes, family is very important here in Ethiopia”

“Yes I’ve noticed that already… things are just different in the US. My family is pretty close, but I think you all have a much healthier family dynamic out here in Ethiopia”

“Well if you dont have your family, what else do you have? It can be a blessing and a curse really. But I’m sure your family is not that different than ours.”

“No, its very different. You told me that Tadele (my abate/dad) bought a cow yesterday because his sister is getting married, and that her fiancé’s family has to come over to the house, to see if we are a wealthy enough family for him to marry into. That is very different than what we do in the states. We do not buy cows to show that we have money, but mainly we don't even get our families approval.”

“What!? You wouldn't want your dads approval? You wouldn't care if your family didn't like your boyfriend?”

“No, I would love his approval, but it just doesn't work that way. My dad doesn't even want to meet the men I date, He said he doesn't want to meet them UNTIL they have already proposed. And no, I don't need approval from my family or anything like that. People get married sometimes without their family even knowing, and without their parents at the wedding.”


“Aww, thats so sad.”

“yeah I guess…Do people ever get married here, even when their family does not approve?”

“Uhm.. sometimes. But mainly only in Addis. Here you have to get the churches approval, and your families.”

“wait, your church has to approve?”

“Yes, if you are dating or want to date, or want to get married, we ask the  pastor for their blessing. People still get married if the church doesn't approve, but they cant get married at the church and its not as nice.”

“Oh wow, well what would you do if you were in love but your pastor told you that he doesn't think you should marry the guy?”

*grimaces* “uhm… I dont know, I guess if I really loved him, I would try convincing the church. But things like that happen all the time here. Remember the boyfriend I told you about?”

“Yes, the one you met at your job, right?”

“Yes. We were together for 3 years before we broke up. And we broke up because his family didn't approve of me.”

“What! 3 years, you were together for 3 years and it ended just because of his family?! Thats crazy… 3 years, he obviously loved you. Why would he care what his family thought?”

“If you marry without your families permission, they can disown you. And one time he did tell me that we should just run away, but I would not like that. What if we have kids, I want them to know their grandparents, their aunts and uncles. And I didn't want to marry into a family like that anyway”

“What do you mean?”

“They didn't like me because of this.” Fantaye points to her leg.

“oh…..”   Fantaye’s left leg is disproportionate to her right. It is smaller, shorter and can not support her weight. Because of this she walks with a metal cane, and has a slight limp.

“Thats absolutely insane. You are intelligent, you have 2 university degrees, an amazing heart and personality and you work in a hospital. You make good money, and have a good job, you speak fluent English!”

“I know, but people see only what they choose too.” She begins tearing up. “Because of this leg, I may never marry. People see it and think I’m cursed, or that I will have kids with the same problem. It is sad, but I pray and believe that there is a family that won’t care when their son wants to marry me.”

I get up to hug her. “Im so sorry Fantaye, but you will find a family that wont care. You are an amazing woman. I would be so mad if I were you, I know your culture and values are different, but I would think that man was such a coward!”

She laughs. “No, he is not, it is not like that. You are right, we are different, and the situation may be harder for a foreigner to understand.”

“I nod my head, yes obviously” I say with a smile and chuckle.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

My Ethiopian Family

The Bus ride from Addis to Butajira was about 1.5 hours of sleep and 1 hour of me staring out the window at the numbers of crops, donkeys, goat and horses that were sprinkled all throughout Addis and seen more and more as we ventured further into the countryside. I sat in my cramped seat, with two heavy bags, carrying what I considered my most valuable items: my laptop, iPod, kindle, GoPro, and my wallet amongst a few other things.






The drive was calming, the scenery beautiful, and I was anxious to move into this next phase of my Peace Corps life. As we pulled into Butajira, my nerves began to rise and the a flood of thoughts came



“I should have used the bathroom while I was in Addis! Now I have to go, but there will be no flushing toilets. I have to learn how to poop in a hole. POOP IN A HOLE!!!!”



“ Why didn't I study the language more?! Omg i’ve forgotten how to say Hi"

(all words are spelled out phonetically)

AH-MAH-SAY-GUH-NA-LOW
Wait.. No, thats Thank You

SA - LAM       
yeah that works…but wait is that only for Muslim families?! Oh crap im not sure….

DAY - NAH - NESH
yes! I think thats it… but thats only for women, what if my host dad is there?

and I continued to freak out like this until we arrived. When we pulled up to the hotel where we were all supposed to meet our new families, I was ready. My Amharic sucked, but I told myself to just keep smiling, and I think it worked.

After unloading our luggage, 25 of us were told to walk into the restaurant portion of the hotel and to find our host families. The families would be standing up in a line with a name tag… the family with your name tag, was your family for the next 3 months.

My eyes darted from left to right, taking in all the Ethiopian families standing in a row, with big smiles and bright eyes and I searched for my name tag. A stout man with a slight grin and a 4 year old little girl clinging onto his arm was standing to the far left, holding up the name “ASHLEY”.

As soon as I saw him I closed my eyes, took a deep breath and thought


And with that thought, I headed over towards my new AH-BAT (Dad in Amharic). His smile widened, as if with surprise, when he saw my face. I would like to say that maybe he was stunned by my breath taking beauty, but honestly I think he was shocked to see a Black volunteer (There aren't too many of us). We greeted one another with a handshake and a hug, his daughter, Betselot (BEH - SEH -LO) stared blankly at me from behind her fathers leg, and I just continued to smile.


Photo of my lil sis and her Dad.





We took our seats at a nearby table, grabbed a plate of food and began talking… or trying to talk in Amharic.

(translated for your pleasure)


Ashley: Hi, my name is Ashley
Host Dad: ASTH - LEY?
Ashley: *nervous laughter* yes, Ashley. How are you Ms.?
Host Dad: *confused look*
Ashley: Amharic bad. My Mom where
Host Dad: oh My wife is at home
Ashley: Oh Home! Go Home
Host Dad: We can walk, the house is about half a mile. Are you hungry?
Ashley: Food. I don't like injera.
*silence and a smile*
Ashley: Very good. My name is Ashley

But through it all, I just kept smiling.


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After awkward introductions, smiles and eating silently, we boarded the bus together and rode to my new home

Tadele (Tah - Deh - Le) my host father, lives on a compound with his wife, Emebet (Eh-Meh-Bet), their 4 year old daughter Betselot (Beh - She -Lot) and 14 year old relative Meheret (Meh-He-Ret). The compound is very spacious, very green and its gated (yay for privacy). When I walked through the 6 ft tall gates I began to take in my surroundings. The house is very modest, but its surrounded by trees and tall grass. There is a guard dog tied up near the back of the compound and about 6 chickens and 2 roosters running around. A clothesline hangs, strung up from tree to tree and there are about 3 main buildings on this compound, the main house, the kitchen and another building that Im guessing is where Meheret (the 14 year old relative) sleeps.


Map Of Compound




I finally met my host mother and she has such a good spirit and a wonderful smile. She just smiled and laughed as she gave me a tour of her home. Her English is the best, although its very basic and when words failed us, we both took to miming out things we wanted to say.


.View from the front gate.



 My host mom took me to my new bedroom, which is adjacent to the living room, and I began to unpack.
My room is small, like 10x10 feet, its a perfect square with 1 twin sized bed, a wooden bench and a window with a prime location so I can clearly hear the roosters crow in the morning.





photo of the compound I live on. To the Right is the entrance into the main house, to the left is the kitchen.




My families yard in our compound and the dog house.


The "western" Bathroom, we also have a Shint Bet... and Ill explain that one later haha



My bedroom



The view outside my bedroom window


The whole family and 2 other relatives came into my small room and began to hang up my mosquito net for me. I just sat there quietly as a flurry of Amharic words were spoken and people began nailing my Mosquito net into the walls and instructing me on how to take it down during the day.


photo of mosquito net up


These people are so sweet. My Ahbate (dad) and Inate (mom) are both Protestant Christian and let me know that we will be attending Chruch on sunday morning. My Ahbate is an Evangelist, and my Inate is a teacher. I couldn't be happier with how things have turned out, Im excited to see whats in store for the rest of this week and Im determined to make my 4 year old sister more comfortable around me, so far she just stares blankly and clutches to her father.


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Dinner was served around 800pm, and to my surprise only the Dad and myself were served.

“Arent you going to eat with us?” I asked my Inate (mom), she smiled and replied (in english), “I work, no eat now.” And it dawned on me that I was being honored as a guest because I ate first, with the man of the house while the other women worked. Even 4 year old Beselot had to wait to eat. From what I’ve learned Ethiopia is very patriarchal and traditional. The women have their roles to play, and so do the men, but it made me very uncomfortable to be eating alone at the table with my host dad and him only. I’d rather be with the other women, working, cleaning and waiting to eat after my host dad finishes. I know it was only the first day, so I’ll play my role as the guest, but I don't want to be treated as a guest, I want to be a member of the family, not seen as the goofy and non-understanding American. Im here to become Ethiopian, in every sense of the word and I’ll spend the next few months trying to attain this status and become a member of this family.



"Well do you want to pray before we eat?" I asked in English, knowing my Ahbate is a religious man. "Pray!" He said enthusiastically, and he bowed his head and looked at me with a smile. "Oh you want me to pray?" I said nervously, then I cleared my throat and began to pray... "Father I come to you in the name of Jesus, and I ask you to bless this food. I thank you for bringing me into this wonderful home and pray that you watch over me and this family...

As I prayed my mind was reeling with fear that I would say something and offend this man and his family. I was half expecting him to say "GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN" or something to that effect because although I know he is Protestant Christian, I have no idea what the protocol is for praying in this denomination, or if they pray to the Father, or only to Jesus, or if they have a particular way of praying...there was just so much that could have happened, but instead he only smiled and said "Amen" as the prayer ended and we began to eat.

I asked to be excused to bed after finishing my dinner which was comprised of Spaghetti noodles, homemade bread, and chunks of beef.

“you don’t want bunna (Coffee)” My host dad asked me.
“Oh no thank you” I said.
I had forgotten that its very common to have a bunna ceremony at 9pm here, and although I dont like coffee, especially 30min before Im trying to sleep, Ill make sure to try it next time.

I went into my bedroom, hung up my mosquito net and my Ahbate (dad), watched me as I crawled under the covers. (Him standing there watching me was very weird… i wont lie haha, but I know He just wanted to make sure I did it right. Our host families are told to treat us Americans like know nothing babies, because honestly we are like children and dont know anything when it comes to this culture and its norms.

Before my Ahbate turned off the light in my bedroom, he placed an orange plastic bucket on the floor next to my bed.

“Whats that for” I asked.
“uhh toilet” he said, as he smiled and left.

I really am in the Peace Corps now, I thought to myself as I drifted off to sleep.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

The first week

What I look like trying to speak Amharic at times....
 


Hotel employee: Sälam
Me: Sälam
Hotel employee: dähna näs?
Me: *silence and a smile*
Hotel employee: ïndämïn näš?
Me: *eyes look from left to right as I try to find an escape* and finally I say “Lo siento. No sé lo que está diciendo.”

This was how my first week went in Ethiopia. A few people would approach me or greet me in the language (called Amharic), and I’d stand there confused because I don't know a word of it,  AND for some strange reason I end up speaking spanish!



 Its very odd, but I'm not the only American here who finds themselves using or fighting the urge to use spanish. Its quite hilarious actually.

I’ve been in this predicament before where Im living in a world that isn't predominately english. But my experience in Argentina wasn't that bad because Spanish is so similar to English, and I've been studying it since high school… so at least with that language i had the basic greetings down. But Amharic, is an entirely new ball game.

It is very intimidating and its written alphabet doesn't help soothe my spirits.




I mean look at that nonsense.
I have a lot of work cut out for me in these next 2 years.

I guess this is why Pre Service Training (PST) is so intense. Since my arrival Peace Corps has all 70 of us Education volunteers in training sessions from 8am - 530pm. Its very exhausting and although Im completely over it, I know it is very necessary too.

So to answer all the questions I have been getting from friends.

No, i have not had sufficient time to roam the city.


No, I have not made a ton of Peace Corps friends because we are practically in “school” all day and a lot of us knock out after.

and No, i have not met an African prince to whisk me off into the sunset while riding on a lions back.

My time so far consist of going to training sessions on a variety of topics that go exactly like this:

“The Crime rate in Ethiopia is pretty high, 1 out of every 5 volunteers usually becomes a victim of some type of theft,” said the Security trainer assigned to inform us PCV’s of what we were getting into. “You all need to take precautions and think of ways to mitigate theft from happening to you. For instance, never leave your purse or bag unattended, keep you zippers zipped and put locks on them if possible. When you are in a crowded area, hold your items close to your body and stay alert.”

I leave most trainings feeling informed, prepared and honestly a little bored. I mean this isn't my first time traveling in a 3rd world country and I'm naturally a very cautious person. But I will admit that Ive never worried so much about theft in all my travels as I have now in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. There have already been a few occasions where there was sketchy behavior from a group of boys who were walking way too close to one of my friends as she crossed the street. I noticed 5 min later that one of the pockets in the backpack she was wearing was open and unzipped. Nothing was missing but she swears that pocket was zipped before.


“If someone approaches you and attempts robbery, give them whatever they ask for.” The security officer continues. “ Items are replaceable, that laptop, your cell phone and wallet are all replaceable, but you are not. Be smart and you should all be fine.”

And this is how most of our trainings have gone during the first few days…until today when things finally got a little interesting.







Lately during trainings we have been learning more about our home stay situations and Ethiopian culture. A group of PCV’s (Peace Corps Volunteers) from previous years popped by to help us newbies out, and let us know what living and working in Ethiopia is really like. These discussions have been the most entertaining by far.

“Be prepared to be called ‘ferenji’, which means foreigner, or ‘China’, Said one female volunteer. “ You may not even look Chinese but many of the Ethiopians in Addis equate foreigners to being Chinese, because many Chinese have come here to build roads and work in construction. And some use the word interchangeably with foreigner.” Another volunteer spoke up “Im African American and Ive been living in Ethiopia for a full year now, and its happened to me too.You would think I blend in, and sometimes I do, but other times, even when Im walking alone I can tell that there are people looking at me, watching me as if unsure if I'm one of them or not. I don't know what it is they see in me, maybe its just my demeanor and the sway in my step but sooner or later they realize I'm a foreigner too and Ive been called ferenji, and even worse Ive been called “Nigger”. She pauses

“That one hurt a lot, because here I am, in the motherland, in a country full of beautiful black people and yet Im hearing this derogatory term. I don't even know if the person who said it knows the full history behind it, but they knew it was wrong.”

Ethiopia is the only African country that was not colonized and enslaved and the people here are proud of that. Ive heard other African American PCV’s tell me that they were called the N-word too and it makes me wonder what this country stance is on that word. What they think of the history behind it, a history they were not really apart of…

Someone raises their hand. “What do Ethiopians think about Americans?”

“Well, they think you are rich,” Said a male volunteer, “Thats why you must be cautions and careful regarding theft and not staying out late or going to certain areas. When you move in with your Host Families you all must be home before 730pm when it gets dark. No exceptions. Also American women are viewed as very loose and with low morals in this country. You have to remember that many countries only get perceptions of Americans and other cultures from what they see on TV, so you can thank Jersey Shore, Real World and Housewives of wherever for the perception this country has of you. But this is also why you must follow the cultural norms here and of wherever town you are placed in later. You might be the only American some of your neighbors might meet  in their lifetime and you want to make a good impression and be respectable in their eyes. That typically means wearing clothing that is at knee length or longer, not showing your shoulders, not hanging out with males one on one or inviting them into your house alone. If you want to have a friend over that is of the opposite sex, at the very least leave your front door open so people can see inside.  But expect people to talk, news spreads very fast here, especially news about the only American in town who seems to be running a brothel out of her home.

Another raised hand. “What about us men? Do we have any of the same restrictions the women have?
“Yes, but its not as damaging. You shouldn't be inviting women to sleep over also, it just looks bad for Peace Corps. But unlike the women, men can smoke cigarettes and be seen drinking in public. One thing you need to be careful of is mentioning anything that has to do with homosexuality. Being homosexual is illegal here, you can go to jail for up to 15 years and now they are trying to make it punishable by death. So do not even talk about the subject, it makes many Ethiopians uncomfortable and if anyone begins suspecting you, or even suspecting you support it, there will be problems.

An older gentleman clears his throat. “As peace Corps volunteers you are also not allowed to talk about Politics. Avoid this subject at all costs, we are not here to take a stand, or politically sway the members of our community. Peace Corps volunteers must remain neutral on all hot button issues. This includes human rights issues like female circumcision or genital mutilation, I know many of you may feel strongly about such topics, but it is not your place to be fighting on the front lines and combating these issues. You may generally talk about them if you wish, but do not have an opinion, if asked what you think, just say “ Peace Corps doesn't allow me to talk about that.”

“What about topics regarding Religion?”

“Well religion is a subject thats commonly talked about in Ethiopia. Its not rude to discuss that here, and if you are comfortable with it, then by all means share what you believe in or don’t believe in. But just know that if you are Atheist, many people here will have a hard time understanding that concept and will think of you as strange. Ethiopians are pretty diverse religiously, they wont care that you are Christian, Muslim or Catholic, but not believing in a God at all would be very strange to them. The culture and religion here overlap tremendously, so please know that religion will be brought up, just make sure you know what you will say and how  you will deal with your host family inviting you to church or other religious ceremonies.

SO much information and so little time before I go to my host family in the town of Butajira (BOO-TAH-JIR -RA). June 12th is the day we move in with these “new families”, and step away from this westernized Addis Ababa, with its western flush toilets, showers & 24/7 electricity. Butajira will be a step closer to what I am expecting my peace corps service to look like and Im just hoping that my host family is full of cute kids, and at least one friendly-rabies-free-pet.











Proof that I might be losing it, but I'll make it in the end!