Sunday, August 24, 2014

The 14 year old Maid. and Site Announcements!

   Meet Meheret



 This is Meheret, my families seratainya. In Ethiopia it is very common for families to have seratainyas (maids) that do all the cleaning, cooking, and washing in the household. Seratainyas are taught to avoid eye contact, and never look their employers in the eye, especially the men in the family. Sometimes they aren't treated very well, as they are considered "second class citizens". My families seratainya, is treated with kindness, but there are a few things that make me uncomfortable about her situation.

For one, she has the same 3 outfits that she always wears. Her clothes are dirty, worn and tattered. My Ethiopian family isn't very well off, but they all have more clothes than Meheret. She also sleeps in the room with all the animals. It took me awhile to figure out where she was sleeping and living, but when I did, it was hard to ignore. Meherts bed is under the same roof as the chicken coop. The chickens sleep on one side of the room and she sleeps on the other side, the cow also sleeps in the same vicinity. Knowing how kind and loving my family is, it was hard for me to reconcile how they let Meheret live in such conditions, and how most Ethiopians let their Seratainyas live. But I have come to realize that many Seratainyas are saved from much harsher lifes by being taken in and working for other Ethiopian families. Seratainyas are not slaves, they decide to work for their employers and they can quit just as easily. Meheret eats nutritious food, has a roof over her head and is a member of my family here. She is always seen smiling and playing with my other host sister Beselot, and she seems to be very happy. Having Seratainyas is apart of Ethiopian culture and not all Seratainyas are young girls. Many families have grown women with children of their own working for them as the Seratainya. Each case is different and unique, and being a Seratainya is basically the same as being a live in housekeeper.


Meheret is related to my abate in some way. I don't know if she is a niece, or 2nd cousin twice removed. It has not been explained, as I've been told not to pry too much into Meherts history, because it is seen as rude. But I do know that she is family. She grew up in a very rural and poor town and because her family was in poverty and unable to care for her. Their options were to marry her off to an older man, when she was young, or to send her to work as a Seratainya. They of course, did the latter. Meheret is only 14 years old now, or 13.. she is not sure of her age. (Many Ethiopians do not know their exact age) And she has been working for my family for a few years. She is not in school, but she might continue her education in a few years. Seratainyas get paid a meager wage by the family they live and work for, but they are known to save every penny and eventually leave their families to make a life for themselves. Heres to Meheret doing the same :)


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Site Announcements

I am nearing completion of Pre Service Training here in Ethiopia. I’m more than halfway through with this 3 month training and getting closer and closer to my actual Peace Corps Service. With 1 month left to go before I am sent to live on my own in the world, Peace Corps reveals to us trainees where in Ethiopia we will be calling home for the remaining 2 years.

The week was full of anticipation, excitement and worry. The town of Butajira is beautiful, I love the trees, the livestock wondering around and just the feel of the place, but the idea of seeing more of the country is exhilarating.  Will my new town have waterfalls? Elephants or Hippos? Will it be in a rainforest? or atop a snowy mountain?

The possibilities are endless in Ethiopia. Its climate is so varied, its unbelievable.

70 Peace Corps trainees sat in a large conference room of a hotel, just waiting to hear their name be called as our Peace Corps Staff member called out site names and its matching volunteer.

“Remember, that you agreed to serve wherever Peace Corps places you, to be flexible, and understanding. That although many of you told us what you wanted in a site; internet, to be near a certain person, or the size of your city, etc, please know that our first priority in deciding your future placements was finding a job that matched your experience, your needs and vice versa. Remember that you came into Peace Corps Africa to serve, and you promised to do so potentially without Internet, electricity and running water.”


Life is calling. How far will you go?

The Peace Corps slogan ran in my head and a smile slowly spread across my face as I romanticized living my next two years in a mud hut with a thatched roof. Or amongst farmers and their livestock on fertile land. Waterfalls! Elephants! Hippos! A rainforest or snow!! I squealed in anticipation once more.

The names were called and envelops handed out with detailed information about our future sites.

“Amy’s site has a population of ONLY 4,000 people!! She doesn't have running water or internet in her village. Everyone goes to a village well to collect water!”

“Wow, that's going to be an amazing adventure for her! Such a different lifestyle and a true Peace Corps experience.”

“Izzy is living super close to that huge town down south with all the Rastas! Its like a jungle down there, its so green and its where they grow a lot of coffee beans!”

“Izzy is so lucky…but did you hear about Beto? He’s going to be the first Peace Corps volunteer his village has every had! So he might be the first American, his townspeople have ever met and his town has 2,000 people in it, its in the coldest region of Ethiopia on top of a mountain and it snows!!”

These are some of the sites a few of my friends are going to be calling home for the next two years and I was definitely jealous hearing about this entirely new world they would have to grow accustomed too. Their experience is what I imagined my peace corps experience to be like in a way… so when I heard about my future site….

Town:         Welliso
Region:    Oromia
Population:     60k
Nearest city:    Addis Ababa (2-3hr drive)
Site mates:    Yes, 2 site mates
Internet:    Readily available
Cell phone:    Yes
Running water: Yes
Landline:     Yes

Summary:    Been there. Done that. Nothing New. No challenges. No new experiences. Posh    
        corps, not peace corps.

So yeah, I was a little disappointed. My future town is located very close to Addis and Butajira. I knew it couldn't vary much from what I have already experienced in Ethiopia, as far as climate and weather. My dreams of change slowly became uncertain questions. Waterfalls? Elephants? Hippos? Snow?

And I was put in a little bit of a funk. I cried out to my friends in America, and here were their loving responses:

“Girl God, has blessed you! He knows where he wants you to be and I’m sure he knew you couldn't handle that Tarzan lifestyle you’ve been dreaming about.”

“Ashley I understand wanting to experience something different, but you have to remember that you already are! You are earning major street cred with me, I mean you might have internet and everything, but you still have to poop in a hole and wash your clothes by hand out there!”

“Girl, call it all JOY!!”

“If you don't shut up Ashley… oh my goodness I can't believe you’re complaining about having all the amenities that everyone else probably wants!”


“Your dad must have really been praying for you, since you got the hook up!”

and so the comments went. In all honesty they made me laugh, and they did help a bit in there own way. After speaking to a few people I did realize that I was being a huge brat, and I got to really look at all the pros of my future site.

One being:  that when I do want to see what life is like in a REALLY remote part of Ethiopia, Im so close to Addis Ababa, that I'm able to access buses and planes to fly me all over the country anytime I want. :)


SOOO for all those interested.. THIS is the address to my new home!


Ashley Quarles
P.O. Box 79
Oromia Regional State
South - West Shoa Zone
Wolisso Town
Ethiopia


It takes about a month for mail to go through... sometimes longer. (so send things NOW lol) But I'd love to get some letters! or any of these goodies...


 Quaker Oatmeal (HIGH FIBER) I can never have too much of this stuff!! Send as many boxes as you want!                                                     


PowerBars! The Chocolate Peanut Butter kind if you'd be so kind.



Justins Hazelnut butter... or Cookie butter. Or Nutella... any will do.

ANY Seasonings
my favorites are:
Garlic salt.
**Italian Seasoning**
Lawrys Seasoning salt
Hot sauce
Soy sauce




 


Sunday, August 3, 2014

Poor in wealth but rich in love & being Black in Peace Corps

“Listen, my dear brothers: Has not God chosen those who are poor in the eyes of the world to be rich in faith and to inherit the kingdom he promised those who love him?  - James 2:5


 a little girl stood and just asking for money as I walked past. I gave her a smile and a prayer. I hope it was enough.



   Sometimes I’ll be reading the word of God and verses that I never noticed before, later stand out to me. Its funny how your circumstances in life determine what your heart and ears are willing and ready to hear. Stumbling across James 2:5 this morning made me immediately think of my host family, and not just them, but every God fearing person I’ve met here in Africa, who in the eyes of the world are seen as poor. 

Sometimes I wonder why these people were chosen to be born on this side of the world, and I, on the other side. Was it just the luck of the draw? Why me and not them? I wonder why my family and friends have so much, and others so little. I have been born into such luxury, while so many others have been born into such hopelessness.The roles could have been so easily reversed.



But then I run across a verse like James 2:5, and I wonder who has really been born into hopelessness.




My family here, and those far worse off than them, are so rich in faith. Strong, proud, God fearing people, with the most beautiful hearts. They give their all, they give their last, they keep giving, although many would say they don’t have anything left to give. They carry a child on their backs, Gods words on their lips, and all the worlds sorrow on their shoulders, and they still smile, they still laugh. Poor in wealth, but rich in love, rich in faith, family and life.

 Part of me wonders if its easier to believe in God when he’s all you have left. Logically I would think, yes it is, but there are so many who, when at their lowest, cry out, wonder why and lose all hope.




I have been so loved, so extremely wealthy, and educated and I know I am called to use my blessings to bless others.

And although I keep telling myself that I am here to help, that I am here to serve and give. I know in my heart of hearts that I have much more to learn from this country and these people than I can ever give back.


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Word is out that Im not Habesha (Ethiopian)

Whenever I walk the streets of Butajira by myself, I get a lot of stares and looks from the townspeople. In a town of 40,000 people, it might be noticeable if a new face shows up in your little neighborhood. So I didn't mind the stares and looks, from children and adults alike. I even had 1 woman and 2 kids, on separate occasions, approach me speaking full blown Amharic, while I just stood there smiling and nodding.

It wasn't until today that I realized why they probably approached me.

 I was walking home, as I do everyday. When 5 neighborhood kids started running toward me. I stood there confused and wondered what was about to happen. When they all got within a few feet of me and began yelling out “Hello” “Hi” “Ferenji” “Hello” “America!” in what appeared to be the only English words they knew.



“Oh… Hi” I said, feeling defeated. The ruse was up. How do they all know that Im not Ethiopian anymore?! I thought to myself, and then it hit me. OH MY GOODNESS! what if the people that approached me before were testing me! And afterwards told everyone I don’t speak the language, and couldn't be Ethiopian.

Wait… maybe there is still a chance… Using my best Amharic I said, “What’s your name?” to one of the girls in the group.

“I am called Kidist” the little girl replied.

“How are you Kidist” I asked, still using my best Amharic.

“Good…” and then she spit out some rapid fire Amharic that I could not catch, but I was determined to not give up so easily…


“In - De - Gah - Na?” (Again, or repeat) I asked, when she just laughed and shook her head as if to say “Mere non-habesha mortal, just stop trying”

“Buh bye” Kidist added, before she ran off with her group.


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Ever since the townspeople figured out that Im not Ethiopian, I have been getting harassed. Its nothing really horrible or bad, but it is a little annoying. I will be walking to class by myself, and grown men will yell out to me:

“America!”
“Ameriiiiicaaaaaa!”

trying to get my attention. Two kids have approached me asking for money in English.


“Give me money!” They say
“You, give MEEEE Money!!” I reply.

I was in the suk (store) once, buying a few things. When I noticed this old man following me around the store, he was maybe in his late 60’s, so I figured I could take him if I had too, but just to play it safe, I promptly left that store, and walked into another one a few feet away. Lo and behold, the old man pops up in that store too!

Feeling a little uneasy now, I began to make a plan… “Ok, other PCV’s should be nearby, class just ended and a lot of people like to go to the restaurant upstairs for wifi, so if I walk quick enough…” But as I was thinking to myself I heard my old man stalker and the store clerk talking.

old man: “ blah blah blah” (Amharic words I did not understand)
“No, she's American” the store clerk replied in English.

What the heck!  Why is the old man asking about me?! AND HOW does this random store clerk know I’m American!!!

Its absolutely ridiculous how fast news spreads in this town, and its even more ridiculous that me being American, can be considered “News”. I still don't have it half as bad as the white female volunteers have it though. At least I have the potential to blend in, whereas they stick out like sore thumbs. One of the girls here felt the need to run from a few Ethiopian men who she says were following her, another was forcefully grabbed by a guy, as he repeatedly demanded that she buy the motorcycle he had with him. She instead resorted to hitting and violently elbowing him off of her. Another volunteer serving in Mozambique, has little kids crying when they see her, because they think she is a “white devil” and they have never seen a white person before. (check out her story HERE, its absolutely hilarious and there are photos!)

If the worst I will get, is a few random guys yelling, “America” out at me, then I will take it.

In all honesty, before signing up for the Peace Corps I was worried about what my experience would be like as an African American Volunteer.

Would my community respect me? Or will they be disappointed that they didn't get a “real American?” Will they value my opinion and advice, or will they think I have nothing to offer them because I am black, just like they are.

I went into Ethiopia, with these little fears and worries, just waiting to see what would happen, but a 3rd year black PCV, helped ease my mind.

“As a black volunteer, you may not get all the Ferengi (foreigner) perks, that the other volunteers get. People may not let you skip lines in the grocery store or bank, kids may not get excited to see you, and sometimes, yes, people will not respect your opinion as much, or think you can really offer change. But you will get the advantage of integrating into your communities faster. You will form friendships quicker than other volunteers and the friendships you do form, will be much deeper. Your community members will share more of their lives with you and through these friendships and relationships you can gain trust and respect. Black volunteers can do just as much as any other type of volunteer, and many times, they do even more.”

Listening to this experienced volunteer share her stories and words of wisdom was very beneficial for me. I was getting so caught up on the negatives that I did not think of the positives. I wanted to serve in Africa particularly, because I wanted to work, live with, and help other black people.

 I want the students that I teach and the community that I work with, to see themselves in me, and I in them. I thought the culture would be richer in Africa, the food - better, and I loved the idea of being surrounded by people who looked just like me.

I never once thought that I’d “feel at home” here, or that I would seamlessly fit in. In fact, being in Africa, has made me realize exactly how “American” I really am. But for some unexplained reason, there is a connection. There is something there, just a comfort perhaps and understanding that although, I am America, I am also Africa.



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